My Peruvian Mayhem : Adventure #2
Adventure #2 was BAD!!!. A major glitch in the tour planning. Many tourists were angry and contemplated legal actions against the local tour company who knowingly put us in danger. I was sure when everyone calmed down, we’ll let bygones be bygones.
We had an early morning departure to catch the local “Greyhound” for a ride to Lake Titicaca in Puno (southern Peru). It was a 12-hour bus ride so an evening arrival was expected. Our original tour director, Lucero, came down with the flu. Another tourist, Karen took ill after last evening’s seafood dinner at a local museum cafe and had to be hospitalized. The plan was for Lucero to remain in Cuzco with Karen. They were to meet up with our group in Lima and skipped the Puno leg of the tour.
The rest of us went with a new tour director Michael onward to Puno. Michael announced due to a local strike, instead of traveling on the major highway, we would take an alternate route through some mountain passes at 18,000 ft and would see some fantastic scenery instead of the Pan American Highway.
We learned the strike was about the government wanting to build a hydroelectric plant in the area, thus privatizing local water. The local villagers were dirt poor farmers and they have been getting their water free since the beginning of time and didn’t want to have a monthly water bill, hence, the strike. Thank goodness the villagers had no weapons. Instead, they placed large boulders and rocks all over the highway to block tour buses and stopped traffic. They demanded the Peruvian President to come to their village for a face-to-face talk. That was why we had to take the mountain pass, the alternate route to get to Puno. Except as fate had it the day we traveled was also the day the King and Queen of Spain were to meet with the Peruvian President in Lima (major media coverage). The villagers knew all tour buses would use the alternate route instead of the paved Pan American highway and they were waiting for us to “arrive”.
As our bus crossed the 1st bridge, we saw police dressed in riot gears (I mean helmets, shields, batons, etc.) gathered by the bridge but they did not stop our bus, we actually waved at them, and they waved back. (Remember, we did not know about the King and Queen of Spain until afterwards.) After we crossed the bridge, our bus drove on for a mile or so and eventually came to a halt because there were huge boulders blocking our way to cross the 2nd bridge. There were 6 tour buses traveling in the same direction. The 4th, 5th and 6th bus saw the blockade ahead and they turned around and got the hell out of dodge. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd tour buses (we were bus #1, the tour buses were independent of each other, just happened to be going the same direction) decided to hang around because Michael said the villagers just wanted to make a point, after 20 minutes they would remove the rocks and let us go, at least that was what happened to him in the past. (Wait a minute, it happened before???) Sure, 20 minutes wait was nothing, we got off the bus, stretched and took in some fresh air. We waved at the local villagers as they walked past our bus towards the 1st bridge we just crossed. The villagers were friendly. After about an hour, we could see a large crowd had assembled between bus #3 and the bridge and some men were using large poles to roll additional boulders behind our bus. Now, we have boulders in front of our bus and behind our bus. We were officially trapped.
To make a long story slightly shorter, there were multiple villages in the assembly, all but one village voted to free the tourists, they acknowledged tourists were good to them, tourists were good for them. But the bad village said “no” and they stood at a higher terrace by the hillside, about 10’ above ground and threw stones at whoever tried to cross the 2nd bridge. Michael and the bus driver went from negotiating with the villagers to a shouting match about letting the tourists crossed the 2nd bridge to no avail. Michael climbed up to the hill top to get a cell phone signal and called the local tour company to send help but was told to wait it out. There were no police, no military on site. Michael even called the US Consulate for help. The phone call was made, the US Consulate registered our complaints and that was their answer on the phone??? At one point, the regional mayor was coming from an hour away to negotiate our release, except the mayor got kidnapped on his way to save us and now he had to be saved.
Next thing I learned was the crowd behind our bus had set the bridge we crossed earlier on fire and did a “good job” gutting it. We could not turn back. Our only option was to persuade the villagers to let us go forward, to cross the bridge ahead of us. One of the 3 tour buses that was trapped carried Russian tourists and among them, 10 huge Russians. In hindsight, we speculated may be they were military or special forces. They were all 6’ tall and weighed 200 lbs. It was getting dark in the evening and the Russians decided to bluff since obviously, no police, no military or any US Consulate personnel were coming to free us. We had to help ourselves. Nobody wanted to spend the night there. The Russians went up the hill and started pushing and kicking the bad villagers who were throwing rocks at whoever, whatever were trying to cross the 2nd bridge. People got bloody noses. People were injured in the fight. While the Russians were busy fighting the bad guys to prevent further stone throwing events, the men on our bus (the Americans and other men from the other tour bus, I chatted with some of them and they were Brits) took the opportunity to grab those large poles to roll the boulders off the road, others removed stones from the road by hand and cleared enough of a stretch for the bus to get by. Our bus driver, a local Peruvian saw the chance and ran our bus across the bridge with us women on board. The wives on our bus were screaming for the driver to stop, thinking our bus driver was just gonna drove away without their husbands. Once he crossed the bridge, our men ran across the bridge and hopped on the bus and we drove away as fast as we could, the Russian bus and the other bus were right behind us.
It was 2:00am when we finally arrived at the hotel in Puno. What a relief! It was a bad day indeed. We later learned from the news that the police we saw at the 1st bridge got into a fight with the villagers when the bridge was set on fire. Some 40 policemen were injured according to BBC World News. At one point, I asked the bus hostess (she served us hot tea, etc.) if we were safe. She answered “No”. I asked if she spoke English, wanting to learn more about the villagers dispute. She hand-gestured “a little bit”. I asked her the same question the 2nd time after awhile if we were safe and again, she said “No”. As we surfed the internet at the Puno hotel the following day, we learned that the villagers threw stones at an Australian tour bus 2 days ago, some windows on the Aussie tour bus were cracked. Another group of students (foreigners) were on their high school graduation trip to Peru and unfortunately, the group was detained by local villagers overnight. I did not find any news articles about their release, only their detainment, so I did not know the outcome. I guess the high school chaperons would not have done the same as the Russians did, wanting to make sure none of their students were physically harmed so they avoid a confrontation. We tourists had no plans either because we did not anticipate scenarios as such. We certainly did not spend time watching the local news. We were on VACATION. When it happened to us, we were in a “wait-and-see what happened next” mentality. Until the Russians got mad and started shuffling locals, did we seize the opportunity to move the boulders to clear the road, our bus driver then took the chance to dash across the 2nd bridge, the men then ran across the bridge to jump on the bus and we drove as fast as we could, zigzagging on the road to avoid the rocks which were already there (but not huge boulders). Well, that was the worst day on the trip but I truly believe “we were in the wrong place at the wrong time”. I understood where the villagers’ coming from. They did not intend to harm us. It was NOT us they were targeting but they just had to use us (tourists) to get the government’s attention.